Due to Popular request I’ve finally got around to making the tutorial for how we made the open front petticoats for Goddess Madoka and Walpurgisnacht. Now, before I get into the details about the making process let me give you a little behind the scenes; When I first set about to making the pair of costumes I had no idea how to do the open front, nor had I seen any tutorials online on how to do this except from making your own cage, which I didn’t have the ability to do in our house. So- The process I used was one based on trial and error; Madoka’s petticoat was the one I made first, and Walpurgis’ was the one I made for the tutorial.
Now! On to the Tutorial! You can find the details under the cut—-
Difficulty Rating: ★★ - Basic techniques that can be perfected over time
Anonymous asked: Hello Lalonding! I was wondering how do you make your seifuku uniform collars? Thank you have a great day!!
let me tell you sweet anon. it is 12:15 at night and i have classes in the morning but i put together a shitty, grossly colored collar just for you despite the massive piles of homework i should be doing. no way in hell im making a paint tutorial but here are pictures and what i did
okay here the shape; 1 yard of fabric to be safe. this is short that’s why it doesnt amount up to exactly 1 yard
on the other side use tons of INTERFACING. if you use a heavier interfacing, which i recommend you using, just interface one side. the interfacing i used on this was kinda thin (about equal weight to this fabric) so i interfaced everything. again… this could look so much better
ironed and folded in half, this is what you should sorta get
idk why my mat looks green all of the sudden but here ya go. just dont forget to iron. please iron.
for this next step, i’m using iron on hem tape for lazy people that dont want to top stitch. it’s more expensive but this saves so much time. making bias tape is harder but a cheaper alternative. plus, theres several tutorials and shortcuts available all over the internet im just. lazy.
the technique i use with ironing this on is to iron a bit, and pull so the tape wont get crinkly and show uneven folds. i use chalk to trace the lines. (on the left side you can see i accidentally used too much lmao at me)
afterwards sew together on the WRONG side. pike the curved edges and cut the straight edges closest to the edge. i marked where i wanted to leave a hole where it needs to flip at. the hole should be in the center and is to your hand measurement. make sure you caught the fabric on both sides!!!
next is to flip inside out, to the right side and sharpen the corners. i use a chopstick but ive heard people using pencils or something common. just dont use anything sharp unless you hate your collar and want to sew this again.
iron that shit down till its flat and not wrinkly and it’s not shown but the hole in the center is usually top stitched. other people have just sewn the raw edges onto the top which is okay too.
then you’re done!!!!!!! wooo!!!!!!!!! hope this helped anon im tired goodnight.(dont forget to iron)
My method is very winging it style with no exact science, but figured I would share on my Tumblr since I already typed it all out for a friend
- I get about 2 yards of fabric to make pleats 1 1/2 in. and my waist is 35 in or so and it’s too big for me, so figure out what you have. Making it bigger is easier imo in the long run
- I measure up from the fold the length I want for the skirt (minus the 2 in or so for the waist band) so I don’t have to hem anything to make the bottom pretty
- cut that bitch to that length you figured out
- Iron that bitch out flaaat.
- Sit there and make the damn pleats. Get something to measure. It’s best to go one pleat at a time to make sure they’re super even. I measure 1 1/2 in and then pin it, then measure another 1 1/2 and pin it. Fold the fabric so the pins line up. You should have 1 1/2 in of fabric on top of 1 1/2 in of fabric! Hey first pleat!
- Iron it like crazy
- Pin the bottom of the pleat and the bottom of the pleat to keep it in place
- Repeat 5-7 until you have all your pleats
- Baste stitch along the top to keep the pleats in place.
- I like to stitch the inside pleats to help keep the shape (pic 1. The top layer is what it looks like on the outside, bottom layer what it looks like on the inside with the stitches along the inside of the pleats)
- Another helpful thing to keep the shape of the pleats is to top stitch an inch or two down the pleat at the waist (pic 2 & 3) If you did both 10 & 11 the inside should look like the unnumbered picture in the inside of the skirt (minus waist band and all so far)
- Since I didn’t have any science to the size and stuff, I figured out the actual size of the skirt that it needs to be to fit me. It works best to hide your seam and zipper if you can find a meeting of two pleats that fits your waist
- I cut the inside of the pleat to make the seam so it hides and put the zipper in there and since I cut the inside of the pleat, hey the top pleat is still there and hides it! (pic 4 & 5)
- do yo waist band
- eeeeeeey knife pleat skirt!
***OH YEAH IRON ALL THE DAMN TIME. Like after every step just iron just iron everything and when you’re done starch it and iron it more just iron the hell out of it without burning it and all
Stop. There is a better way.
This shit is amazing, it’s fast and it’s fucking strong. You only need very little. No burning, comes off skin like it’s nothing, basically no risk, just remember to get some air.
A 2 ounce bottle is like five bucks and will last you for fucking ever. This shit should be in your cosplay emergency kit. I fucking swear by this for quick fixes and tight spots.
Go forth and costume my friends.
Word. I love hot glue and all, but when I want the job done I use Fabri-tac. ESPECIALLY with foam and armor adhered to clothing.
I’ve noticed that there are a bunch of people out there who shy away from picking up cosplay as a hobby because it can be an expensive endeavor. While this is a legitimate concern there are defiantly things you can do to cut back on expenses.. Couponing, making trades within the community and planning ahead are some common money-savers.
What I would like to bring your attention to however is your capacity to “Make do and mend”, go the old recycling and revamping route!
I recently bought my first wig recently, then realized that I had no wig stand.. You’ll generally need a wig stand in some shape of form if you plan on styling a long wig. I’m of the impatient sort; I had no intentions to buy one online and wait the two weeks for it to be delivered so I started looking around my place for a stand replacement..
I found an old desk lamp that no one has used in 3 years and decided that that would be my wig stand; it was only a matter of modifying..
What I used:
- An old “column” desk lamp
- Something to cut the electrical cord
- Weights to fill base
- LePage PL Premium Construction adheisive
- Threaded PVC pipe
- E6000 glue
- Something for the Styrofoam head to sit on.
I removed the shade and used a pair of wire cutters to snip the electrical cord at the base.
The lamp itself is quite light which is an undesirable trait in wig stands. I filled the empty base with nuts and bolts and miscellaneous scrap, then using construction glue (in this case LePage Premium Construction Adhesive) because it’s quite thick.
I leveled off the base and turned it upside down when the glue was dried. A short section of threaded PVC pipe proved to be a perfect extension to get those last few inches of height, also it screwed snugly into the former light socket.
I took a spherical wine bottle stopper from our junk drawer (doesn’t house have a junk drawer) and used the stopper as the nob to perch the styrofoam wig head on. I used E6000 glue here.
It can defiantly use another coat of paint, but I’m very happy with the final product! And it didn’t cost me anything.
Give it a try, make something!